Utterances of an old man

Today's update comes from Siem Reap, Cambodia via Hanoi, Vietnam. It is my birthday, hence the title. Not that I feel particularly old, but still, I am getting older.

Let's start with the World Cup. One of the worst finals ever. Spain were probably the better team but their diving and whining did nothing for me. We watched the game at the hotel with the staff. They were all Spain fans and so were happy with the result. The manager was not happy waking up 2 hours later though. It was fun watching with others especially knowledgeable soccer fans.

Our last night in Hanoi resulted in us purchasing some gifts for some of our family as well as getting last-minute tickets to see the water-puppets. I got to hum Le Marsielliase because Reg wanted to give up our quest for tickets because they were supposedly sold out that afternoon. When I made her go back right before the show there suddenly 2 tickets. The puppets were the only thing she really wanted to do in Hanoi so I couldn't believe she was going all Marshall Petain on me. The show turned out to be pretty cool, much to my Surrender Monkey's delight.

Afterwards we went to the night market where we saw something perfect for John; a new leather wallet with the Chelsea crest pressed into it. One small little problem: if you're going to make something counterfeit, make sure you spell things right. The wallet said, "Chlesea Football Club." we thankfully spotted the error before we forked over any money.

Before we were to leave Hanoi we were geared up to go see Ho Chi Minh, or what's left of the dude. Contrary to his wishes, he was embalmed and is on show in the middle of the city. He wanted a simple cremation befitting his humble upbringing/take on life. Early on Tuesday morning I was startled awake by what I thought was the shower in our bathroom, instead it was the downpour outside. Said downpour lasted over 4 hours and on the two blocks around our hotel there were over 8" of water. We were a bit scared that we wouldn't be able to leave Hanoi, and if you've read this blog, that was a horrifying thought. Thankfully the rain lightened to a fine mist and we were able to get out of the hotel for an hour, but did not make it to see Uncle Ho as the last tickets were already given out. We did get to see two soldiers guarding the doors to a temple. Those soldiers were carved and painted and were quite cool looking, I called them my "G Nuggets". Don't ask me how I came up with that one, I just did. When we went to go look at them, this very nice kind, older gentleman came over and tried to get me to come in and pick up 3 incense sticks (that's how many you're suppose to get and how many bows you're suppose to do as you say your prayers...at least that's what we've learned so far). I didn't want to come in but he had a near death grip on that fleshy part of the upper arm that he was actually hurting me. I thought for a second that Vietnam Conflict II was about to break out but thankfully he needed to assist someone else in the temple and I was able to scurry away, with a minor bruise.

Speaking of bruises, did I mention the awesome one I've got on my calf? No? Well, when we got back from Halong Bay, we walked back to our hotel. As Reggie has posted about sidewalks, we did our dodging in streets and sidewalks. When we passed one area as I got by a moto (scooter), I felt the back of my leg catch fire, or at least that's what it felt like. I got burned by the tailpipe of a moto on the back of my left calf and its about a good 2 inch big burn. Blisters and everything the last day or so. So, I think I've got a cool scar story now.

When we finally left Hanoi we did so with a slightly heavy heart. As "Hanoi-ing" as it was, the people at our hotel were really quite nice. The manager/owner (we think he was part owner) was really great and helped out with whatever we needed. He even gave me a hug. I'm not saying it made me feel good, but it might have.

Upon landing in Cambodia, I thought I could make out Angkor Wat, but still today, can't be sure. Getting a visa and clearing customs was a breeze, and right out front was Don. Don is our tuk-tuk driver. He works for the guesthouse we're staying at and he's a funny guy. For about $15/day he takes us everywhere around town and the major local temples. For a bit more, he'll be taking us to some of the much further out temples tomorrow. Don drove us to our guesthouse which coincidentally is run by a guy from Philly, Gordon. Dude has a great writing style. His hotel manual and his blog: www.talesofasia.com are really quite funny with some good sarcasm thrown in.

Today being my birthday, we arranged with Don to go see Angkor Wat at sunrise...along with at least 4 busloads of friggin' Japanese tourists. We found a great spot on the corner of the lake, set up the tripods (yes, I brought my two mini tripods) and got ready for sunrise. Unfortunately, the sunrise spectacle with many different colors didn't materialize, as the sky was overcast with mostly blues and yellows. That said, I didn't care one f'in bit as I was at ANGKOR FUCKING WAT! ON MY BIRTHDAY! How ya like them apples? We spent about 2 hours going around taking pictures, looking at bas-reliefs, and marveling at apsaras (celestial nymphs with killer bodies). There were thousands of them.

After Angkor Wat, we decided to go to Ta Prohm. If you've ever seen Lara Croft: tomb Raider, you've seen Ta Prohm. Its the temple used with the weird trees breaking the temple apart. Let me tell you, there's nothing like seeing Mother Nature give the middle finger to humanity and watch it slowly destroy a work of beauty. Seeing the temple walls, roofs, and foundations surrounded and wrapped by tree trunks, limbs, and roots was almost surreal.

After that we took a nice 2+ hour break back at the hotel, where I consumed two bottles of Coke. Oh, right, real Coke, made with SUGAR, not high fructose crapola. Oh, did I mention the bottle? GLASS. Yes, for the past 2 weeks I've been drinking real Coke, out of glass bottles. Jealous?!?! I'm trying to figure out how to get one or 2 home later on.

After the nap we went to see another 3 smaller temples, all in various state of repair/destruction. One, Ta Keo, we were told that we needed to climb to the top. I'm normally not afraid of heights, but when each step is only 4-5 inches max wide, and 18+ inches high, its a bit steep and terrifying. In a moment of weakness, I may have tipped a 5 year old Cambodian girl (if she was even that old) $1 for showing me the best way up and down the temple. The views were killer and having done it, it was no problem later that evening doing a similar temple trying to watch a sunrise that never materialized.

Elephants! All around the temples in terms of artwork. Only a few to be ridden. We have not ridden one yet, we're saving it for Friday, after we've seen most of the big things we want to see. We saw a bunch of monkeys this afternoon, which was pretty cool. No tigers, or tiger cubs. We have looked into it and the tigers are on the other side of the country, so finding one may be a bit harder than some people would like to believe, no matter how "good it is to be" them.

Reg is telling me I need to be done now, something about a 6am meeting with Don so that we can go to Kbal Speal, Bantay Srea, and Bang Melea. Oh right, I was the one who set that up, I guess I do need to go. Did I mention how cool this freakin' place is??? Everyone smiles here and for once in my life it doesn't feel put on.